SPECIAL FOOD ON THE FEASTING MENU: REMAINS OF ARCHAEOLOGICAL MEALS SERVED WITH ETHNOANTHROPOLOGICAL APERITIFS
Ključne reči:
food, feasts, ritual, structuralism, cannibalism, neolithisationApstrakt
Even though food is a fundamental physiological necessity, its meanings and roles vary among cultures. Food is an essential factor in all social spheres for preserving the integrity of culture, even in cases when its consumption is taboo. This paper takes the standpoint of structuralism to examine the conditions in which certain foods become specific and significant. Ethno-anthropological cases are used as examples to indicate possible meanings of food in archaeological contexts. The study focuses on pork consumption in the contemporary funeral ritual of the islands of Papua New Guinea and animal domestication at the Çayönü site, going back to the Pre-Pottery Neolithic, but also looks at ethnographic and archaeological cases of cannibalism as an exceptional
meal. Preparation, service, and food consumption depend on the social context, which is best gleaned through social events of a public character, such as rituals, feasts, and ceremonies. Food acquires its special status when it reinterprets social relations by
turning a group of people into a community and creating a collective individual identity. Thinking in opposing pairs determined by food reveals contemporary and former metaphors regarding social, cultural and religious realities.
Reference
Alexander, Bobby C. 1987 and 2005. “Ceremony”. In Encyclopedia of religion, Vol. 3, edited by Lindsay Jones, 1512–1519. Second edition. New York: Thomson Gale. (First published 1987)
Anderson, Jennifer L. 1987. “Japanese Tea Ritual: Religion in Practice.” Man 22 (3): 475–498. https://doi.org/10.2307/2802501.
Ashley, Bob, Joanne Hollows, Steve Jones and Ben Taylor. 2004. Food and Cultural Studies. New York: Routlege. https://doi.org/10.4324/9780203646915.
Balj, Lidija. 2012. “O intimnom i emotivnom u praistoriji – priča o igračkama.” Godišnjak Muzeja grada Novog Sada 8: 191–197.
Bello, Silvia M., Palmira Saladié, Isabel Cáceres, Antonio Rodríguez-Hidalgo and Simon A. Parfitt 2015. “Upper Palaeolithic Ritualistic Cannibalism at Gough’s Cave (Somerset, UK): The Human Remains from Head to Toe.” Journal of Human Evolution 82: 170–189. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jhevol.2015.02.016.
Ben-Nun, Liubov. 2014. Attitude Towards Cannibalism. Israel: B.N. Publications House (First published 2009). https://www.researchgate.net/publication/281775678_ATTITUDE_TOWARDS_CANNIBALISM#fullTextFileContent
Billman, Brian R., Patricia M. Lambert and Banks Leonard. 2000. “Cannibalism, Warfare, and Drought in the Mesa Verde Region during the Twelfth Century A.D.” American Antiquity 65 (1): 145–178. https://doi.org/10.2307/2694812.
Bloch, Maurice. 1985. “Almost Eating Ancestors.” Man 20 (4): 631–646. https://doi.org/10.2307/2802754.
Broderick, Lee G., ed. 2016a. People with Animals: Perspectives and Studies in Ethnozooarchaeology. Oxford: Oxbow books. https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctvh1dr8g.
Broderick, Lee G. 2016b. “People with Animals: A Perspective of Ethnozooarchaeology.” In People with Animals: Perspectives and Studies in Ethnozooarchaeology, edited by Lee Broderick. Oxford: Oxbow books. https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctvh1dr8g.4.
Brown, Paula. 1978. Highland Peoples of New Guinea. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Brück, Joanna. 2007. “Ritual and Rationality: Some Problems of Interpretation in European Archaeology. European Journal of Archaeology 2 (3): 313–344. https://doi.org/10.1179/eja.1999.2.3.313
Clastres, Pierre. 1998. Chronicle of the Guayaki Indians. New York: Zone Books. https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctv1c9hq6f.
Conklin, Beth A. 1995. “’Thus Are Our Bodies, Thus Was Our Custom’: Mortuary Cannibalism in Amazonian Society.” American Ethnologist 22 (1): 75–101. https://doi.org/10.1525/ae.1995.22.1.02a00040.
Coolidge, Frederick and Thomas Wynn. 2016. “An Introduction to Cognitive Archaeology.” Current Directions in Psychological Science, 25 (6): 386–392. https://doi.org/10.1177/0963721416657085
Croucher, Karina. 2005. “Queerying Near Eastern Archaeology.” World Archaeology 37 (4): 610–620. https://doi.org/10.1080/00438240500418664.
Darling, J. Andrew. 1998. “Mass Inhumation and the Execution of Witches in the American Southwest.” American Anthropologist 100 (3): 732–752. https://doi.org/10.1525/aa.1998.100.3.732.
Day, Jo, ed. 2013. Making Senses of the Past. Toward a Sensory Archaeology. Carbondale: Southern Illinois University
Deacon, H. J. and Sarah Wurz. 2005. “Late Pleistocene Archive of Life at the Coast, Klasies River.” In African Archaeology, edited by Ann Brower Stahl, 130–149. Blackwell Publishing.
Defleur, Alban, Tim White, Patricia Valensi, Ludovic Slimak and Évelyne Crégut-Bonnoure. 1999. “Neanderthal Cannibalism in Moula-Guercy, Ardèche, France.” Science 286 (5437): 128–131. https://doi.org/10.1126/science.286.5437.128.
Descola, Philippe. 2013. The Ecology of Others: Anthropology and the Question of Nature. Chicago: Prickly Paradigm Press (Originally published in 2011, L’écologie des autres. L’anthropologie et la question de la nature, Versailles: Quae)
Dietler, Michael and Brian Hayden, eds. 2010. Feasts: Archeological and Ethnographic Perspectives on Food, Politics, and Power. Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institute.
Dongoske, Kurt E., Debra L. Martin and T. J. Ferguson. 2000. “Critique of the Claim of Cannibalism at Cowboy Wash.” American Antiquity 65 (1): 179–190. https://doi.org/10.2307/2694813.
Douglas, Mary. 2001. Purity and Danger. An Analysis of the Concepts of Pollution and Taboo. London and New York: Routledge. (First published 1966).
Fernández-Jalvo, Yolanda, Carlos Diez, Isabel Cáceres and Jordi Rosell Ardèvol. 1999. “Human Cannibalism in the Early Pleistocene of Europe, Gran Dolina, Sierra de Atapuerca, Burgos, Spain.” Journal of Human Evolution 37: 591–622. https://doi.org/10.1006/jhev.1999.0324.
Foster, Robert J. 1990. “Nurture and Force-Feeding: Mortuary Feasting and the Construction of Collective Individuals in a New Ireland Society.” American Ethnologist 17 (3): 431–448. https://doi.org/10.1525/ae.1990.17.3.02a00020.
Fowles, Severin M. 2008. “Steps toward an Archaeology of Taboo .” In Religion, Archaeology, and the Material World, edited by Lars Fogelin, 15–37. Carbondale: Southern Illinois University Press.
Gardella, Peter. 2005. “Food.” In Encyclopedia of Religion, Vol. 5, edited by Lindsay Jones, 3167–3175. Second edition. New York: Thomson Gale. (First published 1987.)
Goody, Jack. 1982. Cooking, Cuisine and Class. A Study in Comparative Sociology. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511607745.
Halstead, Paul. 2004. “Farming and Feasting in the Neolithic of Greece: The Ecological Context of Fighting with Food.” Documenta Praehistorica 31:151–161. https://doi.org/10.4312/dp.31.11
Haraway, Donna. 2003. The Companion Species Manifesto: Dogs, People, and Significant Otherness. Chicago: Prickly Paradigm Press
Harris, Marvin. 1974. Cows, Pigs, Wars & Witches: The Riddles of Culture. New York: Random House.
Harvey, Graham. 2015. “Respectfully Eating or Not Eating: Putting Food at the Centre of Religious Studies .” Scripta Instituti Donneriani Aboensis 26: 32–46. https://doi.org/10.30674/scripta.67445.
Hayden, Brian. 1995. “A New Overview of Domestication .” In Last Hunters, First Farmers: New Perspectives on the Prehistoric Transition to Agriculture, edited by Douglas Price and Anne Birgitte Gebauer, 273–299. Santa Fe: School of American Research Press.
Hayden, Brian and Suzanne Villeneuve. 2011. “A Century of Feasting Studies.” Annual Review of Anthropology 40: 433–449. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-anthro-081309–145740.
Hodder, Ian. 1987. “The Contextual Analysis of Symbolic Meanings”. In The Archaeology of Contextual Meanings, edited by Ian Hodder, 1–10. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Holtzman, Jon D. 2006. “Food and Memory.” Annual Review of Anthropology 35: 361–378. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev.anthro.35.081705.123220.
Hunnewell Leynse, Wendy and Ramona Lee Pérez. 2003. “Metaphor, Food as.” In Encyclopedia of food and culture, Vol. 2, edited by Solomon H. Katz, 489–491. New York: Thomson Gale.
Ingold, Tim. 2000. The Perception of the Environment: Essays on Livelihood, Dwelling and Skill. New York: Routledge
Insoll, Timothy. 2004. Archaeology, ritual, religion. London and New York: Routlege
Jaffe, Yitzchak, Qiaowei Wei and Yichao Zhao. 2018. “Foodways and the Archaeology of Colonial Contact: Rethinking the Western Zhou Expansion in Shandon.” American Anthropologist 120 (1): 55–71. https://doi.org/ 10.1111/aman.12971.
Joyce, Rosemary A. and John S. Henderson. 2007. “From Feasting to Cuisine: Implications of Archaeological Research in an Early Honduran Village.” American Anthropologist 109 (4): 642–653: https://doi.org/10.1525/aa.2007.109.4.642.
Kamp, Kathryn A. 2001. “Prehistoric Children Working and Playing: A Southwestern Case Study in Learning Ceramics.” Journal of Anthropological Research 57 (4): 427–450. https://doi.org/10.1086/jar.57.4.3631354.
Keating, Elizabeth. 2000. “Moments of Hierarchy: Constructing Social Stratification by Means of Language, Food, Space, and the Body in Pohnpei, Micronesia.” American Anthropologist 102 (2): 303–320. https://doi.org/10.1525/aa.2000.102.2.303.
Kennett, Douglas J. and Bruce Winterhalder, eds. 2006. Behavioral Ecology and the Transition to Agriculture. Berkeley, Los Angeles and London: University of California Press.
Kornienko, Tatiana V. 2015. “On the Problem of Human Sacrifice in Northern Mesopotamia in the Pre-pottery Neolithic.” Archaeology, Ethnology and Anthropology of Eurasia 43: 42–49. https://doi.org/10.17746/1563–0102.2015.43.3.042–049.
Kuijt, Ian. 2000. “People and Space in Early Agricultural Villages: Exploring Daily Lives, Community Size, and Architecture in the Late Pre-pottery Neolithic.” Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 19: 75–102. https://doi.org/10.1006/jaar.1999.0352
Larson, Greger, Thomas Cucchi and Keith Dobney. 2011. “Genetic Aspects of Pig Domestication”. In The Genetics of the Pig, edited by Max Rothschild and Anatoly Ruvinsky, 14–37. CAB International. https://doi.org/10.1079/9781845937560.0014
Lévi-Strauss, Claude. 1969. The Raw and the Cooked. New York: Harper & Row. (Originally published in French in 1964)
Lindenbaum, Shirley. 2004. “Thinking about Cannibalism.” Annual review of Anthropology 33: 475–498. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev.anthro.33.070203.143758.
Lindenbaum, Shirley. 2013. Kuru Sorcery: Disease and Danger in the New Guinea Highlands. Second Edition. Routledge. First published 1979. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315636337
Marshall, David. 2006. “Food as Ritual, Routine or Convention”? Consumption Markets & Culture 8 (1): 65–85. https://doi.org/10.1080/10253860500069042.
Meyer-Rochow, Victor Benno. 2009. “Food Taboos: Their Origins and Purposes.” Journal of Ethnobiology and Ethnomedicine 5 (article 18). https://doi.org/10.1186/1746–4269–5–18
Mintz, Sidney and Christine DuBois. 2002. “The Anthropology of Food and Eating.” Annual Review of Anthropology 31: 99–119. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev.anthro.32.032702.131011.
Mitrović, Milica. 2022. “ Digging up past Feelings: The Crisis of Neolithisation through Reflection on Emotions.” (Iskopavanje prošlih osećanja: Kriza neolitizacije kroz refleksiju o emocijama). Antropologija 22 (2): 55–73. https://www.antropologija.com/index.php/an/article/view/123/119
Mitrović, Milica. 2023. “Emotions under the Stone: Discovering the Sensibility of Humans from Early Prehistory.” (Emocije ispod kamena: Otkrivanje osećajnosti ljudi iz rane praistorije). Journal of Serbian Archaeological Society (Glasnik srpskog arheološkog društva) 39: 27–57. https://doi.org/10.18485/gsad.2023.39.2
Morales-Pérez, Juan V., Domingo C. Salazar-Gracía, M Paz de Miguel Ibáňez, Carles Miret i Estruch, Jésus F. Jordá Pardo, C. Carls Verdasco Cebrián, Manuel Pérez Ripoll, J. Emili Aura Tortosa. 2017. “Funerary Practices or Food Delicatessen? Human Remains with Anthropic Marks from the Western Mediterranean Mesolithic.” Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 45: 115–130. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaa.2016.11.002.
Mullins, Paul R. 2011. “Archaeology of Consumption.” Annual Review of Anthropology 40: 133–144. http://dx.doi.org/ 10.1146/annurev-anthro-081309–145746.
Obeyesekere, Gananath. 2005. Cannibal talk. The man-eating myth and human sacrifice in the South seas. Berkeley, LA & London: University of California Press.
Özdoğan, Mehmet. 1999. “Çayönü.” In Neolithic in Turkey: The cradle of civilization new discoveries, edited by Mehmet Özdoğan and Nezih Başgelen, 35–63. Istanbul: Arkeoloji ve Sanat Yayinlari.
Pearson, Jessica, Matt Grove, Metin Özbek and Hitomi Hongo. 2013. “Food and Social Complexity at Çayönü Tepesi, Southeastern Anatolia: Stable Isotope Evidence of Differentiation in Diet According to Burial Practice and Sex in the Early Neolithic.” Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 32: 180–189. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaa.2013.01.002.
Pellini, José Roberto, Andrés Salerno and Melisa Zarankin, eds. 2015. Coming to Senses: Topics in Sensory Archaeology. Newcastle upon Tyne: Cambridge Scholars Publishing.
Pollock, Susan. 2015. “Towards an Archaeology of Commensal Spaces”. Introduction to Between Feasts and Daily Meals: Toward an Archaeology of Commensal Spaces, edited by Susan Pollock, 1–20. Berlin: Edition Topoi. https://doi.org/10.17171/3–30.
Quiroz, Diana and Tinde van Andel. 2015. “Evidence of a Link between Taboos and Sacrifices and Resource Scarcity of Ritual Plants.” Journal of Ethnobiology and Ethnomedicine 11 (5). https://doi.org/10.1186/1746–4269–11–5
Rappaport, Roy A. 1984. Pigs for the Ancestors: Ritual in the Ecology of a New Guinea People. Second edition. New Haven: Yale University Press. First published 1968.
Rappaport, Roy A. 1999. Ritual and Religion in the Making of Humanity. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Shankman, Paul. 1969. “Le Rôti et le Bouilli: Lévi-Strauss’Theory of Cannibalism.» American Anthropologist 71 (1): 54–69. https://doi.org/10.1525/aa.1969.71.1.02a00060.
Simon, Scott. 2015. «Real People, Real Dogs and Pigs for the Ancestors: The Moral Universe of “Domestication” in Indigenous Taiwan.» American Anthropologist 117 (4): 693–709 https://doi.org/ 10.1111/aman.12350.
Skeates, Robin and Jo Day, eds. 2020. The Routledge Handbook of Sensory Archaeology. London: Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315560175
Spielman, Katherine A. 2002. «Feasting, Craft Specialization, and the Ritual Mode of Production in Small-Scale Societies.» American Anthropologist 104 (1): 195–207. https://doi.org/10.1525/aa.2002.104.1.195
Strathern, Andrew. 1971. The Rope of Moka: Big-Men and Ceremonial Exchange in Mount Hagen, New Guinea. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511558160
Strathern, Andrew. 1982. «Witchcraft, greed, cannibalism and death: Some related themes from the New Guinea Highlands.» In Death and the regeneration of life, edited by Maurice Bloch and Jonathan Parry, 111–133. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511607646
Strathern, Marylin. 1988. The Gender of the Gift: Problems with Women and Problems with Society in Melanesia. University of California Press. https://doi.org/10.1525/9780520910713
Sutton, David E. 2010. «Food and the Senses.» Annual Review of Anthropology 39: 209–223. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev.anthro.012809.104957.
Swenson, Edward. 2015. “The Archaeology of Ritual.” Annual Review of Anthropology 44: 329–345. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-anthro-102214–013838.
Talalay, Lauren E. 2004. “Heady business. Skulls, Heads, and Decapitation in Neolithic Anatolia and Greece.” Journal of Mediterranean Archaeology 17: 139–163. https://doi.org/10.1558/jmea.17.2.139.65540.
Tapper, Richard and Nancy Tapper. 1986. “’Eat This, It’ll Do You a Power of Good’: Food and Commensality among Durrani Pashtuns.” American Ethnologist 13 (1): 62–79. https://doi.org/10.1525/ae.1986.13.1.02a00040.
Tarlow, Sarah, 2000. “Emotion in Archaeology.” Current Anthropology, 41: 713–746. https://doi.org/10.1086/317404
Thorpe, Ian J. 1999. The Origins of Agriculture in Europe. London and New York: Routledge (First published 1996.) https://doi.org/10.4324/9780203165072
Twiss, Katheryn C. 2008. “Transformations in an Early Agricultural Society: Feasting in the Southern Levantine Pre-pottery Neolithic.” Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 27 (4): 418–442. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaa.2008.06.002.
VanDerwarker, Amber M. and Gregory D. Wilson, eds. 2016. The Archaeology of Food and Warfare: Food Insecurity in Prehistory. New York: Springer. https://doi.org/10.1007/978–3–319–18506–4
Verhoeven, Marc. 2002. “Ritual and Ideology in the Pre-pottery Neolithic B of the Levant and Southeast Anatolia.” Cambridge Archaeological Journal 12 (2): 233–258. https://doi.org/ 10.1017/S0959774302000124.
Vohs, Kathleen D., Yajin Wang, Francesca Gino and Michael I. Norton. 2013. «Rituals Enhance Consumption.» Psychological Science 24 (9): 1714–1721. https://doi.org/10.1177/09567976134789.
White, Tim D. 2001. Once Were Cannibals. Scientific American 285 (2): 58–65. https://doi.org/ 10.1038/scientificamerican0801–58.
Whitfield, Jerome T., Wandagi H. Pako and Michael P. Alpers. 2024. “Robert Hertz, Anthropophagic Practices and Traditional South Fore Mortuary Rites in Papua New Guinea”. OMEGA – Journal of Death and Dying. 2024 Mar 8: 302228241239210. https://doi.org/10.1177/00302228241239210.
Zeder, Melinda A. 2011. “The Origins of Agriculture in the Near East.” Current Anthropology 52 (S4): 221–235. https://doi.org/10.1086/659307.
Zuesse, Evan M. 1987. “Ritual”. In Encyclopedia of religion, edited by Lindsay Jones, Vol. 11, 7833–7848. Second edition. New York: Thomson Gale. (First published 1987).